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V8 Climbing Trainee

Coach's note

Overview and Equipment

An 8-week advanced plan from a former V10 climber returning to the sport, currently climbing around V8. Run the weekly schedule with a deload every 4 weeks. Equipment: a finger-strength dynamometer (the source uses a Tindeq) or hangboard, a board wall (the source uses a TB2 or Kilter Board), rings, a barbell with bench and deadlift setup, dumbbells, and an ab wheel. The source does not define rest intervals between sets.

Coach's note

Progression and Source Context

For the hangboard work, add one rep per week on each exercise until the deload, then start over. For the strength exercises, gradually reduce the number of sets and increase the weight to shift from hypertrophy to strength across the 8 weeks. Advice from the thread: four climbing days are a lot, so keep recovery solid and use RPE to cap intensity, especially on board days. Primary source: https://www.reddit.com/r/climbharder/comments/1qye1b3/rate_my_training_plan_v8_513_climber/

Workout

Monday — Strength and Power Focus

Finger strength at RPE 8, wall crawls, then limit bouldering on a board. Keep board intensity near RPE 8–9 at most for a few moves, not beyond.

  1. 01Finger curls (Tindeq) — 25 mm edgeMonday · 3 × 3 at RPE 8
  2. 02Finger curls (Tindeq) — 13 mm edgeMonday · 3 × 3 at RPE 8
  3. 03Wall crawlsMonday · 3 climbs
  4. 04Limit bouldering (TB2 or Kilter Board)Monday · 60–90 minutes

Workout

Tuesday — Capacity and Strength

Easy climbing for low-level capacity, followed by a superset strength block. Run each pair as supersets: pull-ups with dips, row with goblet squat, front lever with shoulder rotations.

  1. 01Easy climbingTuesday · 75–90 minutes
  2. 02Weighted pull-upsTuesday · 3 × 12
  3. 03DipsTuesday · 3 × 12
  4. 04RowTuesday · 3 × 10
  5. 05Goblet squatTuesday · 3 × 10
  6. 06Front leverTuesday · 2 × 5
  7. 07Dumbbell shoulder rotationsTuesday · 2 × 10

Recovery

Wednesday — Rest

No scheduled training. Optional stretching or a light jog.

Workout

Thursday — Redpoint Sending

Lighter finger work at RPE 6, then near-max redpoint bouldering with the goal of flashing or sending a problem in a few tries.

  1. 01Finger curls (Tindeq) — 20 mm edgeThursday · 2 × 6 at RPE 6
  2. 02Finger curls (Tindeq) — 8 mm edgeThursday · 2 × 6 at RPE 6
  3. 03Redpoint bouldering (near max)Thursday · 60–90 minutes

Recovery

Friday — Rest

No scheduled training. Optional stretching or a light jog.

Workout

Saturday — Endurance and Power Endurance

Wall crawls, boulders on the minute, then a second superset strength block: ring row with bench press, deadlift with ab wheel, face pulls with overhead press.

  1. 01Wall crawlsSaturday · Climbs
  2. 02Boulders on the minuteSaturday · 2 × 10 minutes, 10–15 minutes rest between
  3. 03One-arm ring rowSaturday · 3 × 10
  4. 04Bench pressSaturday · 3 × 10
  5. 05DeadliftSaturday · 3 × 5
  6. 06Ab wheelSaturday · 3 × 10
  7. 07Face pullsSaturday · 3 × 10
  8. 08Overhead pressSaturday · 3 × 10

Recovery

Sunday — Rest

No scheduled training. Optional stretching or a light jog.

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